Before you start taking anything apart, it's crucial to prepare. This will save you from a bigger mess and make the process smoother.
- Turn Off the Water Supply: This is the most important step. Look under the sink for two shut-off valves connected to the hot and cold water supply lines. Turn them clockwise until they stop. If you don't have shut-off valves under the sink, you'll need to turn off the main water supply to your house.
- Turn On the Faucet: Turn on both the hot and cold handles to drain any remaining water from the pipes and confirm the water supply is completely off.
- Plug the Drain: Place a stopper or a rag in the sink drain. This will prevent small screws or parts from falling down the drain, which is a very common and frustrating mishap.
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Gather Your Tools: Having everything ready will make the job go faster. You will typically need:
- Adjustable wrench (Crescent wrench)
- Flat-head and Phillips-head screwdrivers
- Allen wrench set (hex keys)
- Plumber's grease (silicone-based)
- Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, or a cartridge - it's best to take the old ones to the hardware store to find an exact match).
Phase 1: Identify Your Faucet Type
How you proceed depends on the type of faucet you have. Most modern faucets fall into one of four categories:
- Compression Faucet: Has two separate handles (hot and cold) that you have to tighten down to shut off. You feel a squishy rubber washer compressing when you turn it off. This is the oldest and simplest type.
- Ball Faucet: Has a single handle that moves freely over a rounded ball-shaped base. Common in older kitchens.
- Cartridge Faucet: Can have one or two handles. The handle feels very smooth and consistent when turned, stopping abruptly at the fully "on" or "off" position. This is a very common modern faucet type.
- Ceramic Disc Faucet: A high-quality modern faucet with a single handle that is very sensitive and requires only a quarter-turn to be fully on.
Note: This guide will focus on the two most common and DIY-friendly repairs: replacing washers in a compression faucet and replacing the cartridge in a cartridge faucet.
Phase 2a: Fixing a Compression Faucet (Two Handles, Rubber Washers)
The leak is almost always caused by a worn-out rubber seat washer at the bottom of the valve stem.
- Remove decorative cap: On top of each handle, there is usually a small plastic cap labeled "H" or "C". Pry it off carefully with a flat-head screwdriver to reveal a screw underneath.
- Remove the handle screw: Use the appropriate screwdriver to remove the screw holding the handle in place. Pull the handle straight up to remove it.
- Loosen the packing nut: You will see a hexagonal nut holding the valve assembly in place. Use your adjustable wrench to loosen and remove this nut.
- Remove the valve stem: Unscrew the entire valve stem assembly by turning it in the same direction you would to turn the water on. Pull it out.
- Replace the seat washer: At the bottom of the stem, you'll see a rubber washer held on by a small brass screw. Unscrew the brass screw, remove the old washer, and take it to the hardware store to find an exact replacement. Install the new washer and tighten the brass screw.
- Tip: If the brass screw is corroded, replace it as well.
- Inspect the valve seat: Look inside the faucet body where the washer sits. If the metal seat is pitted or rough, it will cut the new washer. You can try to dress it with a valve seat dresser tool, or for a simpler fix, replace the entire valve seat if it's removable (requires a special seat wrench).
- Reassemble: Coat the new washer and the stem threads lightly with plumber's grease. Reinsert the stem, tighten the packing nut, push the handle back on, secure it with the screw, and replace the decorative cap.
Phase 2b: Fixing a Cartridge Faucet (One or Two Handles)
The leak is caused by a worn-out cartridge inside the faucet body. The fix is to simply replace the entire cartridge.
- Remove the handle: Find the screw holding the handle. It's often hidden under a small decorative cap on the front or top of the handle, or it could be a small Allen set-screw on the underside of the handle near the base. Loosen the screw and pull the handle off.
- Remove the retaining nut: You will see a large threaded nut holding the cartridge in place. It might be covered by a decorative trim ring that pulls or unscrews off. Use an adjustable wrench or tongue-and-groove pliers to unscrew the retaining nut.
- Remove the old cartridge: Pull the cartridge straight up. You might need to use pliers to grip the top stem. Note the orientation of the cartridge before removing it. Some have a small plastic tab that fits into a notch in the faucet body.
- Get a replacement: Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to find an identical replacement. There are hundreds of types, so having the old one is essential.
- Install the new cartridge: Coat the O-rings on the new cartridge lightly with plumber's grease. Slide it into the faucet body, ensuring it's aligned exactly like the old one.
- Reassemble: Screw the retaining nut back on snugly (do not overtighten). Reattach the decorative trim ring (if applicable), push the handle back on, and tighten the handle screw.
Final Steps: Testing the Repair
- Turn Water On Slowly: Go back under the sink and turn on the hot and cold water supply valves slowly. Check for immediate leaks around the handles.
- Flush the Faucet: Turn the faucet on full blast (both hot and cold) and let it run for about a minute. This flushes out any debris that may have been loosened during the repair.
- Check for Drips: Turn the faucet off and watch it closely for a few minutes to ensure the drip is gone.
Troubleshooting & When to Call a Pro
- Faucet still drips after repair: You may have bought the wrong size washer or cartridge, or the valve seat inside the faucet body is damaged. Take it apart and double-check your parts.
- Water leaks from around the handles: This is usually caused by worn-out O-rings on the valve stem or cartridge exterior. Try replacing those. Loose packing nuts on compression faucets can also cause this.
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When to call a professional:
- If the faucet is old and severely corroded, it may be impossible to take apart without breaking the plumbing underneath.
- If you cannot identify the faucet type or find replacement parts.
- If you try the repair and the leak gets worse.
- If you have a complex ball or disc faucet and aren't comfortable with the many small parts involved. Sometimes, replacing the entire faucet is more cost-effective than a difficult repair.
